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Mr Beam II engraving and cutting settings

Dear all,

after trying out a rather huge set of materials I compiled a Google Docs List with all settings which did work for me so far.

Feel free to send me your settings so this list can be extended.

With best regards,

Benjamin


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Wow!


What a nice list and a lot of materials and German suppliers. Great Job.


Patrick


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Great, thank you! Will try to add some settings as soon as I receive my new laser head

I have to admit though that it seems that my settings seem to not work as good as before after >100 hours of cutting. I already cleaned the laser head (dismantled it, separated the cooler part and cleaned the lens and everything else) as advised by the Mr. Beam experts but need to test whether a repetition of previous cutting jobs on the same material yield the same result as before or whether the cutting intensity of the laser diode has decreased over time.

Hey Benjamin, this is a great list, I started mine a while ago the same way, but yours is much further, nice job!


But have your laser head checked out or replaced!

I also did a lot of cutting (but more like 20hrs running time ;) ) and I think it really lost power (or whatever the real technical problem was ;) )

I was down to the same extreme passes with 3mm Kraftplex.


With the new head (which Mr-Beam replaced nicely, thanks guys) I am at this now:


Kraftplex 3mm cutting:

Intensity 100
Speed: 50

Passes: 4 (!)
No piercing


I really hope this is not a general problem with the diode.


Best,
Max


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Has anyone already tried Polystyrene?

So far, I've had no luck with clear material. The laser goes straight through (100% intensity, 75mm/s, no pierce) without even leaving a scratch.

Painting the surface (red) leads to absorption (top and bottom) but as soon as the color has been lasered away there will be no more effect.

Milky (non-transparent) white material is very much the same.

If this was related to wavelength, I'd expect a change in behaviour when switching from transparent to white material.


Daniel

 

Next issue is plywood. I went with the standard settings for cutting 4mm. The laser failed to pierce the material. There was still a little left at the bottom. That might be fixed by going a bit slower. But I already get (heavy) burns at the edges of the cut. So, going slower probably is not the right way.
Fun observation: Going along the x axis (long side of Mr. Beam, left to right) leaves less burns than going along the y axis (front to back).
Going faster seems so reduce burn a bit but I still get completely blackened edges (100%, 120 mm/s, 5x, 0ms) although I get a complete cut.
Any hint is welcome...

Looking at the results I've achieved with white rubber foam I do not expect to see a huge improvement regarding cutting results. Cutting white rubber foam mostly leads to very unclean cuts, engraving the rubber foam is almost impossible (requires too much intensity with low speeds, with very unclean result).

You may have more success with transparent orange Polystyrene, as the orange color seems to absorb quite a lot of the laser's energy while still being quite transparent for the human eye.

Note though that one can experience huge differences in cutting behaviour with even small differences in material / color. I found out that the orange transparent acrylic from Hornbach (german version of Home Depot) is rather easy to be cut while the transparent orange acrylic from Trotec (a german supplier for laser cutting materials) is far more difficult to be cut.

@Daniel Barié:

I've changed my settings for 4mm poplar plywood to cut with 250mm/s, 8 rounds at 50%. this is much better, but I will try other settings too. (lower power, faster speed, more rounds)

Nice!

Much less burns indeed.  Thanks for sharing.

Just did another run with 50%, 320mm/s and 9 passes (0ms pierce) for 4mm poplar plywood.

Works just as nice but has a little less cutting effectiveness (1/10th of a mm left).

Thank you Daniel, I will try this also.

By the way, we both have the same typing error: it's mm/min and not mm/s  :-))

@daniel, one thing I learnt while using an Epilog laser, use masking tape on the material (top side). This method reduces burn marks significantly.

@Patrick:

It does :)

But I still get completely burned edges. Still toying around with the settings. Feels like having lasered two square meters of plywood :P


Thank you Benjamin for your list! Do i understand it correctly that you to laser cork 450 times with the settings on your list to cut it? and what exactly is the pierce time? I found where to adjust it, but what is it?

thanks!

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